Short answer: if your TV has an HDMI port, a $30 to $50 streaming stick turns it into a smart TV in about ten minutes. The Roku Streaming Stick (HD, about $30) is the cheapest pick that just works, and the Roku Streaming Stick 4K or onn 4K Pro make sense only if the TV is 4K. The catch most guides skip is HDCP, the copy protection streaming apps require over HDMI. Some early HDMI TVs, many projectors and plenty of computer monitors handle it badly, and the symptom is a black screen with sound, or an "HDCP error". If your TV has no HDMI at all, converters exist, but a new 32-inch smart TV often costs less than the trouble.
At a glance
Making an old TV smart
| You need | An HDMI port, Wi-Fi, a power outlet |
| Cheapest that works | Roku Streaming Stick, about $30 |
| For a 4K TV | Roku Streaming Stick 4K or onn 4K Pro |
| Black screen, sound OK | Almost always HDCP |
| No HDMI port | Converter possible; replacing the TV often smarter |
Check your TV first: three questions
Before you buy anything, look at the back or side of the TV. Three answers decide what you need.
1. Is there an HDMI port? It's a flat, slightly trapezoid socket labelled HDMI. Most TVs sold in the US from about 2007 onwards have at least one. If there's only red, white and yellow round sockets (composite), or red, green and blue ones (component), skip to TVs with no HDMI port.
2. What resolution is it? The model number, usually on a sticker on the back, will tell you if you look it up. Most older flat screens are 720p or 1080p. If it isn't 4K, don't pay for a 4K stick. An HD stick looks identical on an HD screen.
3. Where is the router? Streaming sticks rely on Wi-Fi. A TV in a basement or garage two floors from the router may need a mesh point or a device with an Ethernet port. That's more important than which brand you pick.
The cheapest options that actually work
Every device below plugs into HDMI, needs a power outlet (or in some cases the TV's USB port), and runs the major apps: Netflix, YouTube, Disney+, Max, Prime Video, and live TV services such as YouTube TV or Sling. US list prices, October 2026.
| Device | Price | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Roku Streaming Stick (HD) | $29.99 | 720p/1080p TVs, simplest menus | Wi-Fi only |
| Fire TV Stick HD | $34.99 | Alexa and Prime households | Newer units run Vega OS: Appstore apps only |
| Roku Streaming Stick 4K | $49.99 | Older 4K TVs with weak built-in apps | Needs HDCP 2.2 for 4K |
| onn 4K Pro (Walmart) | ~$50 to $60 | Google TV with Ethernet built in | Box, not a stick: needs shelf space |
| Apple TV 4K | $129+ | iPhone households | Overkill for an old 720p set |
| Game console or laptop | Already owned | Trying it for free first | Clunky remote control, fewer live TV apps |
For most old TVs, our pick is the Roku Streaming Stick. Roku's home screen is a plain grid of apps and the remote has few buttons, which matters if the TV belongs to a parent or grandparent. Our streaming setup guide for seniors walks through that kind of install.
What we'd avoid: no-name Android boxes sold with "thousands of free channels". They're usually stuck on old Android versions, can't run official apps properly, and are often sold preloaded with unlicensed services. There's more on spotting them in our guide to boxes, sticks and smart TVs. For a wider comparison of current hardware, see our best streaming devices of 2026.
HDCP: why some old TVs show a black screen
HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is a handshake between the streaming device and the screen. Netflix, Disney+, Prime Video and live TV apps all require it. If the handshake fails, the app plays sound over a black picture, or the device shows an "HDCP error" or "unauthorized" message.
Almost every HDMI TV supports HDCP 1.4, which is all you need for HD streaming. Problems tend to show up in a few specific cases:
- Very early HDMI and "HD-ready" sets from roughly 2004 to 2007, some of which had flaky HDCP implementations.
- DVI ports (often on older monitors and some early HDTVs). DVI doesn't carry audio, and HDCP support on DVI was optional.
- Older 4K TVs from 2013 to 2015 where only one HDMI port supports HDCP 2.2, the version 4K streaming needs. Plug into the wrong port and you'll get HD or nothing.
- AV receivers, switches and splitters sitting between the stick and TV. Each one has to pass HDCP correctly.
The fix is usually simple: plug the stick directly into the TV, try each HDMI port, and if the TV is 4K, check the manual for which port is marked HDCP 2.2 or "4K 60Hz". On the device, setting the output to 1080p rather than 4K often clears it on older 4K sets.
TVs with no HDMI port
CRT TVs and the first flat screens only have composite (red/white/yellow) or component inputs. You can still get streaming apps on them, with compromises.
HDMI-to-composite converters cost $10 to $20. The stick plugs into the converter, the converter's RCA cables go to the TV, and it needs its own USB power. The picture is standard definition, around 480i, so text in menus looks soft and small. Results are mixed: protected apps may refuse to play through some converters, and because quality varies so much between the cheap ones, it's worth buying from a retailer with easy returns.
Devices with built-in composite output used to exist. Roku sold models with an AV port years ago, but current mainstream sticks are HDMI only. The boxes you'll find with an AV port today are mostly no-name Android boxes, which we'd steer clear of for the reasons above.
The honest answer: by the time you've bought a stick and a converter, you've spent $40 to $70 for a fuzzy picture. Basic 32-inch smart TVs with Roku or Fire TV built in regularly sell for around $100 to $130 at big US retailers. Unless the old TV has sentimental value or a specific use, like retro gaming, replacing it is often the better money.
If the TV is mainly for local news and network shows, an antenna is another route. Our antenna vs IPTV guide covers what you'll get free over the air. Very old analog sets need a digital converter box for that too.
Using a computer monitor or projector
A spare monitor makes a decent bedroom or dorm TV, with two gotchas.
- Sound. Many monitors have no speakers. Look for a 3.5mm headphone jack on the monitor (HDMI audio comes out there) or use wireless audio. Fire TV and Google TV devices can pair Bluetooth headphones and speakers; Roku mostly relies on "private listening" through its mobile app on your phone.
- HDCP and DVI. A monitor with only DVI or VGA needs an adapter, and VGA adapters won't carry protected streams reliably. An HDMI or DisplayPort monitor from the last ten years is usually fine.
Projectors are similar: most modern ones have HDMI with HDCP, but older business projectors can be hit and miss. See our projector streaming guide for the details.
Setting it up on an older TV
- Power it from the wall. Older TVs' USB ports often can't supply enough current, which causes random restarts and "low power" warnings. Use the adapter in the box.
- Use the HDMI extender that comes with most sticks if the port is cramped or the Wi-Fi is weak. Getting the stick out from behind the TV helps reception.
- Switch the TV's input to the right HDMI port with the TV remote, then follow the on-screen setup: language, Wi-Fi, account sign-in.
- Set the resolution to match the TV. Most sticks detect it automatically. If the picture looks cropped or blurry, set it manually (720p for most older 720p and "HD-ready" sets).
- Set audio to stereo or PCM if the TV has no surround sound and you hear nothing on some apps.
- Turn on HDMI-CEC in the TV's menu (brands call it Anynet+, SimpLink, Bravia Sync and so on) so the stick's remote can turn the TV on and control volume. Many older TVs don't have it; if not, you'll need two remotes, or a stick remote with IR TV controls.
When it doesn't work
| Symptom | Likely cause | Try |
|---|---|---|
| "No signal" | Wrong input or no power | Cycle inputs; use wall power |
| Home screen fine, video black | HDCP | Direct to TV, other port, 1080p output |
| Picture cut off at edges | TV overscan | Set TV picture size to "Just Scan" / "Screen Fit" |
| No sound on some apps | Surround format the TV can't decode | Audio output to stereo |
| Random reboots | USB power too weak | Use the wall adapter |
Quick answers
Can I turn a non-smart TV into a smart TV?
Yes, if it has an HDMI port. Plug in a streaming stick, connect to Wi-Fi and sign in to your apps.
What's the cheapest streaming device for an old TV?
The Roku Streaming Stick at about $30. Sales often bring sticks lower.
Do I need a 4K stick for a 1080p TV?
No. An HD stick looks the same on an HD screen. Buy 4K only for a 4K TV.
Why do I get sound but a black screen?
Usually an HDCP handshake failure. Plug directly into the TV, try another HDMI port and set the output to 1080p.
Can I stream on a TV with no HDMI?
With an HDMI-to-composite converter, in standard definition, and some apps may not play. A cheap smart TV is often a better buy.
Do streaming sticks need a monthly fee?
No. You pay for the apps you subscribe to; free services like Pluto TV, Tubi and The Roku Channel cost nothing.
Can I use a computer monitor as a TV?
Yes, with an HDMI monitor. Check for speakers or a headphone jack, or use Bluetooth audio.
Device prices and line-ups change often, and Amazon is moving its Fire TV sticks to Vega OS. Converter compatibility varies by model and app, and smart TV prices fall through the year. Checked October 2026.